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What kind of sandpaper is best for headlight restoration?An overview of the best sandpapers for restoring your headlights and how to use them.Posted March 12th, 2020 by Andrew
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There are many different types of sandpapers and abrasives, each with their own specific use. Some for wood, some for metal, and some for plastic. So what type of sandpaper is best for restoring your headlights? In short, when it comes to headlight restoration you'll want to use anywhere from a 400 - 600 grit silicon carbide sandpaper sheet to remove the initial layer of headlight oxidation. After that, you'll need to use an 800 - 1000 grit followed by a 3000 - 5000 grit to attain the best finish possible.
Why silicone carbide?
Silicone carbide sandpaper has tough, sharp grains that make it easy to cut through a polycarbonate headlight lens. It is is typically backed with waterproof or water resistant paper, which makes it ideal for wet applications like headlight restoration. While it is certainly the best sandpaper for restoring headlights, its drawback is that it loses its grit faster than most sandpapers. This is because its grain is thinner and more brittle, causing it to lose its grit at an increased rate compared to other sandpapers. We have found that as long as you keep the lens's surface wet, you should be able to achieve a uniform sanding layer with one or two 3" pads per the average sized headlight.
Silicone carbide sandpaper can be purchased in a variety of sizes, including the convenient 3" diameter pads backed with hook and loop (or as 3M calls it, "Hookit"). This size is ideal for sticking to a palm sanding block or a drill bit backing pad. Whether you do it by hand or with the assistance of a drill is up to you. Both methods yield exceptional results, but we prefer sanding by hand. We have found it is easier to sand the hard to get places on complex shaped headlights this way.
Silicone carbide sandpaper can be purchased in a variety of sizes, including the convenient 3" diameter pads backed with hook and loop (or as 3M calls it, "Hookit"). This size is ideal for sticking to a palm sanding block or a drill bit backing pad. Whether you do it by hand or with the assistance of a drill is up to you. Both methods yield exceptional results, but we prefer sanding by hand. We have found it is easier to sand the hard to get places on complex shaped headlights this way.
Sanding stage 1: 600 grit silicone carbide sandpaperFor most oxidized headlights, we recommend performing the first sanding stage with a 600 grit pad. (For the more difficult headlights, you may want to use an even courser grit. However, you'll want to avoid going any lower than a 400 grit as scratches from such a course grit can be difficult to buff out later in the process.) Click here or click the picture for the one's we recommend.
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After having cleaned and taped off the headlight, begin by wetting down the lens and using the 600 grit pad to sand in long, horizontal strokes. This is the most crucial step of the sanding process as it is the initial removal of the oxidation layer. You'll notice that the water on the headlight will be thick and yellowed from the oxidation you're scraping off the lens. Continue this process, ensuring the edges and hard to reach places are not missed, all while using horizontal slides. The goal is to achieve a uniform sanding layer so that no one area of the headlight is foggier than the other. You'll know you've done this part well if, after having wiped off the excess headlight-infused water, the lens has an even layer scratches, not too thin in any one area.
Sanding stage 2: 1000 grit foam abrasive disc
After the initial sanding stage with the silicone carbide sandpaper, the headlight should no longer have the yellow oxidation on it anymore. The next step is to wet down the headlight again and begin sanding in vertical swipes with a 1000 grit foam blending disc. This slightly finer grit will remove the scratches caused from the 600 grit sanding layer, especially as you sand in a vertical motion. If you've executed this next stage correctly, the lens clarity should be much clearer. When finished, make sure to double check your work by closely examining the headlight to ensure no 600 grit scratches are left behind.
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We recommend using 3M's Trizact 1000 grit blending disc. This particular product comes with 15 individual discs. Unlike the 600 grit silicone carbide discs mentioned earlier, these foam sanding discs will last significantly longer. We have found that one of these pads, if used appropriately for wet sanding headlights, will be useful for 6 to 8 separate headlights.
Quick tips for preserving your sandpaperTo preserve your sandpapers for as long as possible, make sure you're following these steps:
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Sanding stage 3: 3000 grit foam abrasive disc
Now is where the real fun begins. In this stage, you should begin wet sanding with a 3000 grit abrasive disc. For best results, you should go back to horizontal swipes, though it is not as critical at this point in the process because the 3000 grit isn't leaving scratches visible to the eye. Moreover, you have some freedom to sand in any direction in this stage, applying moderate to heavier pressure. It goes without saying to double check your work after this stage by drying the lens surface and ensuring you didn't miss any spots from the previous sanding stage. This is the most thrilling point for a headlight restorer because the headlight is finally looking like brand new.
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We recommend using another 3M product at this point. 3M's Trizact 3000 grit blending discs do the trick nicely. Like the 1000 grit pads, these will last around 6 to 8 individual headlights when used conservatively. Unlike the 1000 grit pads, however, these foam discs have a spongier quality to them. With micro-grains infused throughout the spongy material, they will continue polishing headlights even after its initial layer has worn off. This contributes to its durability.
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The final sanding stage: 5000 grit foam abrasive disc
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Finally, finish up the sanding process with a 5000 grit pad. This results in the ultimate polished look. Some say that using a grit so fine makes no difference at this point, but we recommend doing so for the most professional results possible. If you have a cordless drill like the Dewalt 20V MAX Cordless Drill then you can attach the 5000 grit pad to a 3" backing pad and leverage the rotary power of the drill for a finer polishing job. If not, using your hand works well, too.
Once again, we recommend another quality 3M product for this stage, the 3M Trizact 5000 grit blending disc. It is similar in many ways to the 3000 grit pad. It has the same spongy texture and has incredible durability, lasting anywhere from 6 to 8 individual headlights.
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Conclusion
As with any trade, practice makes perfect. It took time to figure out a sanding process that yielded exceptional results, and we hope you will save yourself the hassle by learning from our mistakes. Feel free to resort to this page for further reference during your headlight restoration training, and feel free to visit our homepage to see our work!
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